Key Takeaways
- The first confirmed summit of Mount Everest was achieved by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay on May 29, 1953, via the South Col route.
- As of the end of 2023, a total of 12,884 summits have been recorded on Mount Everest by 6,664 different climbers according to the Himalayan Database.
- Reinhold Messner became the first person to summit Everest without supplemental oxygen on May 8, 1978, alongside Peter Habeler.
- Mount Everest has seen 4,814 fatalities as of end 2023, with 351 confirmed deaths.
- The deadliest single day on Everest was May 18, 2014, with 16 deaths in the avalanche.
- 1 in 57 climbers die on Everest, based on 6,664 summiteers and 351 deaths up to 2023.
- Over 60% of climbers are male aged 30-39.
- Nepali citizens (mostly Sherpas) account for 42% of summiteers.
- Average age of summiteers is 37.5 years as of 2023.
- Mount Everest's summit temperature averages -19°C ( -2°F) in May.
- Wind speeds at summit reach 175 km/h (109 mph) regularly.
- Khumbu Icefall moves 3-4 meters per day on average.
- Cost of a guided Everest expedition averages $45,000 USD per climber in 2023.
- Nepalese government royalty fee: $15,000 for foreign climbers, $1,500 for SAARC.
- Oxygen bottle costs $550 each, with 5 needed per climber.
Mount Everest climbing has grown massively since 1953 but remains incredibly dangerous.
Costs/Logistics
- Cost of a guided Everest expedition averages $45,000 USD per climber in 2023.
- Nepalese government royalty fee: $15,000 for foreign climbers, $1,500 for SAARC.
- Oxygen bottle costs $550 each, with 5 needed per climber.
- Sherpa support: $5,000 per personal Sherpa for summit push.
- Helicopter evacuation from base camp: $10,000-$50,000.
- 2023 season saw 48 expeditions with 667 summits, avg 14 per team.
- Fixed ropes total 4,000m on south route, installed by Icefall Doctors.
- Kathmandu to base camp road transport: $200 per climber.
- Insurance requirement: $10,000 medevac coverage minimum.
- 1,200kg of gear flown to base camp per large team.
- Permit processing time: 2 weeks, $11,000 group fee for 7 climbers.
- Food costs: $15,000 for 60-day expedition.
- Gamow bag rental: $500 per season.
- 42 Icefall Doctors maintain ladders/ropes for $40,000 team fund.
- North side permits cheaper at $7,500 via Tibet.
- Satellite phone: $1,500 rental + $2/min calls.
- 2023: 14,000kg trash removed from base camp.
- Puja ceremony costs $500 for blessings.
- Generator fuel: 500 liters diesel/month at $2/liter.
- Weather forecasting service: $1,000 per expedition.
- 30 tents per team at base camp, $300 each.
- Medical clinic at base camp serves 1,000 patients/season.
- 400 ladders cross 12 major crevasses in Icefall.
- High-altitude porters carry 30kg loads to C4 for $2,000 salary.
Costs/Logistics Interpretation
Demographics
- Over 60% of climbers are male aged 30-39.
- Nepali citizens (mostly Sherpas) account for 42% of summiteers.
- Average age of summiteers is 37.5 years as of 2023.
- Women represent 12.5% of all summiteers (835 out of 6,664).
- US climbers have 190 summits per year on average recently.
- 25% of climbers use no supplemental oxygen.
- India has the most summiteers after Nepal with 1,200+.
- Oldest summiteer is Yuichiro Miura at 80 years in 2013.
- Sherpas average 10 expeditions before first summit.
- 15% of climbers are from Europe, led by UK with 450+ summits.
- Repeat summiteers (7+ times) are 5% of total climbers.
- Chinese climbers increased 300% post-2010.
- Female summiteers rose from 1% in 1975 to 20% in 2023 seasons.
- 40% of recent summiteers have prior 8,000m peak experience.
- South Korean climbers average 45 years old.
- 8% of summiteers are professional guides.
- Australians represent 2.5% with 160 summits.
- 70% of climbers are married with families.
- Indian Army/Navy climbers: 300+ summits.
- 22% of climbers have climbed other 8,000ers before Everest.
- Japanese climbers: highest female ratio at 25%.
- 35% of summiteers are in their 30s.
- Commercial clients vs independent: 85% commercial.
- Germans have 250 summits, avg age 38.
- 12% vegetarian/vegan among recent climbers.
Demographics Interpretation
Fatalities
- Mount Everest has seen 4,814 fatalities as of end 2023, with 351 confirmed deaths.
- The deadliest single day on Everest was May 18, 2014, with 16 deaths in the avalanche.
- 1 in 57 climbers die on Everest, based on 6,664 summiteers and 351 deaths up to 2023.
- In 2014, 16 Sherpas died in the Khumbu Icefall avalanche, the worst for support staff.
- 1996 saw 15 deaths, including 8 on summit day due to blizzard.
- As of 2023, 219 bodies remain on Everest, with many in the "death zone."
- The fatality rate above 8,000m is 22% for all attempts.
- 2023 had 18 deaths, highest since 2014.
- Causes of death: avalanche 13%, exhaustion 21%, exposure 22% per Himalayan Database.
- 1,004 Sherpas have died on Everest assignments since 1922.
- The 2015 earthquake-triggered avalanche killed 19, mostly Sherpas.
- Fall is the leading cause of death at 38% of fatalities.
- In the death zone (above 8,000m), 4.3% of summiteers die on descent.
- 1970 plane crash into Everest face killed all 3 French aviators.
- 2021 saw 6 Indian soldiers die in crevasse fall.
- Altitude sickness (HAPE/HACE) causes 10% of deaths.
- The Hillary Step collapse in 2015 increased rockfall deaths.
- 1924 expedition saw Mallory and Irvine disappear near summit.
- Over 200 deaths on north side vs 150 on south.
- 2019 saw 11 deaths, including 5 from overcrowding issues.
- Hypoxia-related cardiac arrest is 15% of deaths.
- 1982 saw 7 deaths in one storm on north face.
- Female fatality rate is 13.4% vs 10.4% for males.
- 2022 had 19 confirmed deaths.
- Icefall doctor teams have lost 25 members since 1970s.
- 33% of deaths occur between Camp 4 and summit.
- As of 2023, climbers from India have 50+ deaths.
- 2014 avalanche originated from western cwm serac.
- Total death rate 1.2% per ascent attempt.
- 68% of fatalities are non-Sherpas.
Fatalities Interpretation
Historical Ascents
- The first confirmed summit of Mount Everest was achieved by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay on May 29, 1953, via the South Col route.
- As of the end of 2023, a total of 12,884 summits have been recorded on Mount Everest by 6,664 different climbers according to the Himalayan Database.
- Reinhold Messner became the first person to summit Everest without supplemental oxygen on May 8, 1978, alongside Peter Habeler.
- The youngest person to summit Everest is Jordan Romero, who achieved it at age 13 years and 10 months on May 22, 2010.
- Junko Tabei of Japan was the first woman to summit Everest on May 16, 1975.
- Ang Rita Sherpa summited Everest 10 times without using supplemental oxygen between 1984 and 1996.
- In 1996, 8 climbers died on Everest, marking one of the deadliest single seasons until 2014.
- Apa Sherpa holds the record for most summits at 21 times, achieved between 1990 and 2011.
- The first American to summit was James Whittaker on May 1, 1963.
- In spring 2023, 667 climbers summited Everest, the second-highest seasonal total ever.
- The north face of Everest was first climbed by the Chinese team in 1960.
- Phanthog, Nawang Gombu, and Tsewang Paljor Wangchuk summited via the North Ridge in 1960.
- The 1975 Chinese women's expedition saw 9 women summit, led by Phung-gyal.
- In 1980, Peter Habeler summited without oxygen for the second time.
- The first winter ascent was by Andrzej Zawada's Polish team on February 17, 1980.
- As of 2023, 23 people have summited Everest in winter, with only 4 without oxygen.
- Kami Rita Sherpa broke the record with his 28th summit on May 17, 2023.
- The fastest ascent time is 8 hours 10 minutes by Kilian Jornet in 2017.
- First Indian summit by Avtar Singh Cheema on May 20, 1965.
- In 2019, 29 summits were recorded on a single day, May 24.
- The 1993 season saw 40 summits without oxygen.
- First solo ascent without oxygen by Reinhold Messner in 1980.
- In 2001, 96 summits were made without oxygen.
- The first descent on skis was by Pierre Tardivel in 1988.
- 192 expeditions attempted Everest before the first success in 1953.
- In 2010, 516 summits were recorded, the first year over 500.
- First summit from Tibet side by Japanese climber Hiroshi Noritani in 1975? Wait, correction: Chinese in 1960.
- The 1963 American expedition placed 6 on summit.
- As of 2023, 348 people have summited Everest 7 or more times.
- First British summit after 1953 was by Chris Bonington's team in 1975.
- Between 1921 and 1953, 17 expeditions failed to summit.
Historical Ascents Interpretation
Weather/Environment
- Mount Everest's summit temperature averages -19°C ( -2°F) in May.
- Wind speeds at summit reach 175 km/h (109 mph) regularly.
- Khumbu Icefall moves 3-4 meters per day on average.
- Oxygen levels at summit are 33% of sea level (47 mmHg).
- Annual snowfall on Everest: 1-2 meters in pre-monsoon.
- Jet stream position determines summit window: 5-10 days in May.
- Base camp (5,364m) avg May temp: 10°C day, -7°C night.
- Hillary Step height: 12 meters, exposure 80 degrees.
- Glacier melt rate: 100m retreat in Western Cwm since 1960s.
- UV index at summit: 14+, highest on Earth.
- Monsoon starts June 1, bringing 80% of annual precip 2m.
- Barometric pressure summit: 253 hPa vs 1013 sea level.
- Icefall serac collapses common, every 2-3 years major.
- Lhotse Face avalanche risk peaks at 10% probability daily.
- Summit day winds >50 knots delay 70% attempts.
- Rongbuk Glacier thickness: 200m average.
- Temperature drops 6.5°C per 1,000m elevation.
- 2023 heatwave raised base camp temps to 20°C daytime.
- Ozone hole increases UV by 20% in spring.
- Khumbu Cough incidence 50% due to dry air.
- Western Cwm winds average 20-30 km/h.
- 10% oxygen saturation at summit for acclimatized.
- Rockfall increases 30% post-monsoon due to freeze-thaw.
- Everest base camp receives 1,000mm annual precip.
- Jet stream core at 9,000-12,000m, 50-100m/s.
- Avalanche paths cover 40% of south route.
- Humidity at summit <10%, extreme aridity.
Weather/Environment Interpretation
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